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walnut and parsley.
3/4 lb meat (lamb) [1/4 t cumin] 1/2 c yogurt 1 lb eggplant
2 c water [1/2 t coriander] 3 onions =2 c chopped 1/2 c chopped walnuts
[1 stick cinnamon] [1/2 t+ salt] 3 lbs gourd 2 T chopped parsley
Cut up the lamb small, removing most of the fat. Simmer it in water for about 1/2 hour with the
spices. Remove 1/2 of the broth, mix with yogurt. Put the vegetables (cut up in small pieces) and
the yogurt-broth mixture back in the pot with the lamb. Simmer for 1 hour. Garnish with walnuts
and parsley.
Note: the spicing is based on what is used in Al-Baghdadi for similar dishes. The cookbook this
recipe is from is very terse; cinnamon is never mentioned, nor, I think, salt, and dry coriander
only once. I assume they are simply omitted in the recipe, and left to the cook's judgement. See
p. 152-153 for a discussion of gourd, squash, and related vegetables.
Page 33
Preparing Asparagus with Meat Stuffing
Andalusian p. A-41
Take asparagus, the largest you have, clean and boil, after taking tender meat and pounding fine; throw in
pepper, caraway, coriander seed, cilantro juice, some oil and egg white; take the boiled asparagus, one after
another, and dress with this ground meat, and do so carefully. Put an earthenware pot on the fire, after
putting in it water, salt, a spoon of murri and another of oil, cilantro juice, pepper, caraway and coriander
seed; little by little while the pot boils, throw in it the asparagus wrapped in meat. Boil in the pot and throw
in it meatballs of this ground meat, and when it is all evenly cooked, cover with egg, breadcrumbs and some of
the stuffed meat already mentioned and decorate with egg, God willing.
1 lb asparagus (before trimming) 1/3 c crushed cilantro 1/2 T murri (see p. 5-6)
1/2 lb ground meat (lamb?) 1/2 T oil 1/3 c more cilantro
1/8 t pepper 1 egg white 1/8 t more coriander seed
1/4 t caraway water 3 eggs
1/8 t coriander seed 1/4 t salt 1 c breadcrumbs
See A Baqliyya of Ziryab's (p. 38) for another dish with egg/meat/bread topping.
Sikbaj
al-Baghdadi p. 34/4
Cut fat meat into middling pieces, place in the saucepan, and cover with water, fresh coriander, cinnamon
bark, and salt to taste. When boiling, remove the froth and cream with a ladle, and throw away. Remove the
fresh coriander, and add dry coriander. Take white onions, Syrian leeks, and carrots if in season, or else
eggplant. Skin, splitting the eggplant thoroughly, and half stew in water in a separate saucepan: then strain,
and leave in the saucepan on top of the meat. Add seasonings and salt to taste. When almost cooked, take wine
vinegar and date juice, or honey if preferred date juice is the more suitable and mix together so that the
mixture is midway between sharp and sweet, then pour into the saucepan and boil for a while. When ready to
take off the fire, remove a little of the broth, bray into it saffron as required, and pour back into the saucepan.
Then take sweet almonds, peel, split, and place on top of the pan, together with a few raisins, currants, and
dried figs. Cover for a while, to settle over the heat of the fire. Wipe the sides with a clean rag, and sprinkle
rosewater on top. When settled, remove.
2 lb fat meat: lamb 2 leeks (3/4 lb) date juice (dibs) or 1/3 c honey
3 c water 5 carrots (3/4 lb) about 10 threads saffron
1/4 oz cilantro seasonings: 1/2 t pepper 20 split almonds (3/4 oz = ~2 T)
1 stick cinnamon bark 1/2 t cinnamon 2 T raisins (1 oz)
1/2 t salt 1 t cumin 1 T currants
1 t coriander 1 t salt 2 T figs (3/4 oz)
6 small white onions (5/8 lb) 1/3 c wine vinegar 1 t rose water
Cut lamb in about 1/2" cubes. Bring to a boil with water, etc, and skim. Meanwhile chop leeks
and carrots, cut onions in halves or quarters, put in boiling water, boil 10 minutes and strain.
Remove cilantro from meat (it should have been simmering about 20 minutes by then), add
powdered coriander, vegetables and seasonings and simmer 1/2 hour. Mix vinegar and honey,
add and simmer another 10 minutes. Grind saffron into 1/2 t of the broth, put into the pot.
Sprinkle on almonds, raisins, etc., cover and let sit 15 minutes on low heat, turn off heat, sprinkle
on rosewater and serve.
Page 34
Madira
al-Baghdadi p. 41/ 6
Cut fat meat into middling pieces with the tail; if chickens are used, quarter them. Put in the saucepan with a
little salt, and cover with water: boil, removing the scum. When almost cooked take large onions and leeks,
peel, cut off the tails, wash in salt and water, dry and put into the pot. Add dry coriander, cummin, mastic and
cinnamon, ground fine. When cooked and the juices are dried up, so that only the oil remains, ladle out into a
large bowl. Take Persian milk, put in the saucepan, add salted lemon and fresh mint. Leave to boil: then take
off the fire, stirring. When the boiling has subsided, put back the meat and herbs. Cover the saucepan, wipe its
sides, and leave to settle over the fire [i.e. at a low heat], then remove.
Fat meat (lamb) or chicken or both: 2 leeks 4 c yogurt
3 1/2 lb chicken or 2 1/2 lb boneless lamb 1 t ground coriander 1/2 lemon
1 T salt 1 t cumin 1 T salt
water to cover no more than 1 quart 1/8-1/16 t mastic 1/2 c fresh mint = ~1 oz
4 medium onions 1/2 T cinnamon
Chicken version: Cook chicken about 30 minutes. If you want to serve it boned (not specified in
the recipe, but it makes it easier to cook and to eat we have done it both ways), remove it from
the water, let cool enough to handle, bone, and put the meat back in the pot. Add leeks, onions
and spices. Cook away the rest of the water, remove meat and vegetables, and add yogurt, lemon,
salt and mint; mint is chopped and lemon is quartered and each quarter sliced into two or three
times with a knife. Let come to a simmer and put back the meat and vegetables. Heat through,
not letting it boil, and serve. Use proportionately less water if you expand the recipe
substantially.
We have a recipe for salted lemon in a modern North African cookbook, and plan to try using
that next time.
Anjudhniyyah of Yahya b. Khalid al-Barmaki
Translated by Charles Perry from a 9-10th c. Islamic collection
Cut meat in strips, chop onion and fresh spices, and throw in a pot. Put in best quality oil, and when the pot
boils and the meat browns, add pepper, cumin, caraway and a little murri, and throw in as much milled
asafoetida (anjudhn) as you need. Break eggs over it and let it cool as needed, God willing.
Note: asafoetida is called Hing in Indian grocery stores. It comes in different mixtures; what we
used is called L.G. Compounded Asafoetida Powder.
meat: 1 1/2 lb lamb or beef 3/4 t coriander 1 t cumin 1/4 t asafoetida
a large onion (12 oz) 1/4 c olive oil 1/2 t caraway seeds 5 eggs
spices: 1 1/2 t cinnamon 1 t pepper 4 t murri (see p. 5-6)
Put sliced meat, onion, cinnamon, coriander, and oil into pot, cook over moderately high heat
about 5 minutes. Add remaining ingredients except for eggs, cook covered over low heat about
20 minutes. Break eggs on top and simmer until eggs are poached, about 5-10 minutes.
Another possible interpretation is to stir the eggs into the hot liquid, in which case the final
cooking takes only a minute or two.
Page 35
Raihaniya
al-Baghdadi p. 192/9
Cut red meat into thin slices, brown in melted tail, cover with water. When boiling skim, add a little salt,
ground coriander, cummin, pepper, mastic, cinnamon. Mince red meat with seasoning and make into light
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